” Only accurate rifles are interesting” *
This blog is dedicated to my voyages into airrifle accuracy. To share my experiences in the hunt for accuracy from myself and from my rifles. And to give other shooters the chance to improve their shooting and their equipment based on my experiences.
It will focus on pre-charged pneumatic airrifles for Field Target, Hunter Field Target and 50 and 100 meter airgun precision shooting. The first project and reason to start this blog is the conversion of a Walther LG400 airrifle from 7,5 to 16 Joule.
Hope you all enjoy reading this and suggestions are welcome,
Kind regards,
Sven from The Netherlands.
My field target club is: Field Target Schalkhaar
Airgun Accuracy 
May 20, 2014 at 20:17
Hoi Sven,
Wat een leuke blog! En zéér interessant om te lezen.
Hartelijke groeten, Joost J. (Die je wel kent van HFT/FT)
December 7, 2014 at 19:39
Hey Sven, nog nooit geweten dat je blogde, maar leuk je blog te lezen!
April 28, 2015 at 02:51
Hi Sven,
Please give me your email address for some questions of the walther LG400 16J
Regards
Franco
December 7, 2016 at 19:19
Hi Sven
I would like to know if I can buy a 21 joule valve to install on an LG300 carbine.
Where do I find a store that ships to Brazil ??
thank you so much
Grandini
December 8, 2016 at 13:08
Hi Grandini,
Try Judith Billharz: http://www.schiesssport-billharz.de/shop/
and fill in the contact form at the bottom ‘ https://www.schiesssport-billharz.de/shop/de/Kontakt ‘
English is no problem for Judith, I do not know about her Portugese 🙂
Good luck, Sven.
May 2, 2016 at 20:59
Hi Sven
Is it possible to get a pressure gauge/quickfill kit for a steyr 110 so I can fit it. Did not want to send the air tube away as it has painted graphics that match the stock.
Trevor
May 3, 2016 at 09:28
Hi Trevor,
Have you seen my reply to your question on the Walther LG300 conversion page?
As far as I know the only DIY option is one where you loose the gauge.
Cheers, Sven.
May 3, 2016 at 21:25
Ok thanks. Would like to keep the gauge.
October 4, 2016 at 13:19
Hi Sven,
Could you, please, send me your email address?
I have a question or two regarding LG400 16J conversion.
Could you, by any chance, send me blueprints for the regulator checker for the LG400 regulator?
Thank you very much!
Best regards,
Walter
October 24, 2016 at 20:03
hello Sven I would turn my lg 300 7.5J to 16j …
I would ask you kindly I have to change:
Pressure moderator 16j to be calibrated at 85 bars ????
spring Compression 16j
Gasket seal
Striker 16j
Spring Striker 16j
looking at the drawing or exploded drawing:
17 Striker 16j
35 Spring Striker Compression 16j
73 gasket Seal
85 Spring Compression of pressure moderator
51 Pressure moderator 16j
I have a barrel 42mm… 49mm is needed ?? Because???
And to change the Striker and his spring is needed ??? why? ??
I thank you for the answer, and if you will give me your email address x keen coN font. . with you
October 25, 2016 at 07:31
Hello Dino,
To change a Walther LG300 from 7.5 Joule to 16 Joule all you need is an 16 Joule pressure regulator.
Drawing no.51 part no.2693038 “Druckminderer kpl. 16J/Pressure Moderator, complete”. To order see: http://www.schiesssport-billharz.de/shop/de/druckregler-16-j .
And you have to set it at 82 to 85 bar if you want 16 joule/240 m/s with 8.4grain, or higher velocities. The 16J regulators I ordered lately where all factory set at 72 to 75 bar. This will not get you the full 16 Joule, but it will give you about 15 joule. The LG300 will shoot good with 75 bar at 233 m/s or 15 joule, there is no real need to go higher. Maybe the wind effect is a bit more, but I never noticed.
I advise to change the valve seal as well. It is not essential to get 16 Joule but functions better. Most LG300’s have a blue or green valve seal which is quite soft. The valve seal for the LG300 Dominator (Drawing no.73 part no.2732505 Ventildichtung/Gasket Seal) is white, much harder and made from Teflon/PTFE. The PTFE seal will live longer and will lower the velocity change when temperatures change.
You do NOT need the 16J Striker, NOT the Striker spring 16j, NOT the Spring of pressure moderator.
And you do NOT need a longer barrel. 420mm is more than enough for 16 Joule. All Airarms S400 and S500 rifles have 425mm barrels for example. All my LG300 and LG400 Walthers have the original 420mm barrel.
I also would advise to check the valve (Drawing 72 part 2620847 Ventil/Valve). The best type and the newest type is the flat sided one. The older ones have a conical (angled) sealing side and cause temperature shift and velocity spread.
I hope this is all clear, when not then do not hesitate to ask again.
Best regards, Sven.
October 27, 2016 at 02:20
Hi,
Did yoo succeed in the Anschutz 2002ca conversion to 16 joules?
Kind regards,
Ruben
October 27, 2016 at 06:33
Hi Ruben,
The Anschutz 2002CA has reached the 16 Joule limit, much more work involved than a Walther, but 12 fpe/16 Joule is there and the velocity is very constant (2 m/s variation). I have been quite busy lately and could not find the time to write an article. And I have only shot the 16 Joule Anschütz 2002CA 1 time at 50 meters which is not enough to comment on the success of the conversion. And those 50m results where not what I like to see accuracy wise. 5 shot groups of about 3 cm. I tried 4 different batches of JSB pellets, but none of them grouped smaller than 30mm. But as I said, it’s been only one test. Need to clean the barrel (this rifle probably has shot many thousands of 7.5 Joule match pellets without a proper cleaning by the previous owner) and try again. And I would like an regulator tester to see how far up I have adjusted the regulator.
The plan is to write it all down here, but it takes time.
But thank you for the interest, and Cheers, Sven
December 8, 2016 at 14:18
Thank you for answering Sven
I would appreciate it if you could tell me or send me some pictures of what you did to the 2002ca whenever you have time, ivruben at hotmail.com (no spaces)
Ruben
February 1, 2020 at 12:42
Hallo Sven,
Met veel interesse je blog gelezen over de Anschutz 2002 conversie.
Ben zelf in heb bezit van een 2002 en wil deze aanpassen naar 16j.
Van het blok had je een CAD tekening gemaakt in mis allen de verdere info om de aanpassingen te kunne doen zoals afmetingen van de veergeleider en type veer lijkt balpen?
Ook zie ik een aanpassing in de valve zitting.
Kan Ik verdere info van je krijgen?
Vriendelijke groet André
February 3, 2020 at 14:00
Hoi André,
Ik heb je een email gestuurd met info.
Met vriendelijke groeten, Sven.
February 27, 2017 at 09:10
Hi Sven.
Do you have some tests with Anschutz convertion to 16j?
What about zero shift? Do you have speed changes in cold or hot weather?
I`m thinking about 9015 but this zero shift scare me :).
So can you give me some more information about it?
February 28, 2017 at 15:31
Hello Rumen,
I’m still working on the Anschutz 2002CA. It is currently at 16 Joule. A month ago I shot 2 great groups at 50 meter. They were 2 five shot groups that measured 15 and 20 mm. Shot outdoors from the sitting FT position. I put the rifle down to stretch my back and after 5 minutes I shot 4 more groups, but none of these were good, 30mm or larger. This made me suspect that there was something wrong with the bedding and that laying the rifle down had shifted something in the bedding. Originally the 2002 is bedded with one bottom screw in the barrelblock and the front of the barrel is fixed in the front holder. I free floated the barrel to prevent POI shift by warping of the wooden stock. So now the whole system is only hanging on to this one bedding point which is shaped like a cone. This seemed a bit unstable.
To test the bedding I put an aluminium shim under the barrelblock to give the block more stability and this improved the results. I then bought some Devcon Plastic Steel. A 2-component epoxy that is used a lot for bedding full bore rifles. I took the ally shim out, and bedded the barrelblock in the Devcon. It sits like poured in concrete now. I tried to test this new bedding last week but unfortunately it was very windy. No conclusive results from that sessions, although the rifle felt very predictable which is a good sign.
The Anschutz 8002/9003 and also the 9015 use a completely different bedding setup. I heard that the 9003 in the Precise stock has no zero shift issues. As the 9015 is bedded the same I suspect no problems there. I don’t know about the wooden stocks or the 9015One stock. But the 8002 Black Air is used for a few years in the UK HFT scene now, and heard no problems there. I think zero shift with the new Anschutz airrifles is something that is not present, or can easily be cured. Check http://www.shooting-the-breeze.com for more info on the Black Air.
May 21, 2017 at 21:05
Hi Sven
I have greatly enjoyed reading your blog, about the work you have done to Walther, Anschutz and Feinwerkbau rifles.
Now I think its time to turn your attention to improving the Hammerli AR20FT!
tenpointnine
May 24, 2017 at 12:08
Hi Walter,
Thanks for the compliments on my blog, great to see that you enjoyed it.
The Hammerli AR20 is made by the Umarex group of which Carl-Walther Sportwaffen is also a part. But, except for the cylinder, I see very little resemblance with the Walther LG300 or LG400. The design and production of the AR20 is aimed at low cost manufacturing
I really like the idea behind the Hammerli AR20 to make entering the FT scene more affordable. An AR20 with a Falcon T50 will allow someone to start in FT at a reasonable price level with the gear to get up to a good competition level. And the FT scene would benefit with more shooters entering.
The big ‘but’ in improving on the AR20 is that it is financially not very worthwhile. Buying a second hand Airarms EV2, Walther LG300, Steyr LG100 or LG110 will give much more value for money and a top class rifle that holds its value much better over time.
Another ‘but’ is that, for as far as I can see, FT shooters are ‘gear snobs’. They love all the High End stuff and gear that goes into a FT setup. Shooters that don’t suffer this syndrome 😉 , go out to shoot Hunter FT.
And to shoot HFT there are better options at the same or lower price level than an AR20 (Airarms, BSA, FX, Weihrauch, CZ, and others).
So I think I need to disappoint you, but I’m not going work on the AR20.
regards, Sven.
June 3, 2017 at 11:21
Hi.is fwb 500 basic suitable for conversion to 16 jules ft air rifle?
July 25, 2017 at 06:13
Hi Sven. Really enjoyed your comment about FT and HFT. My impression is that if your pockets aren’t deep enough there is no way that you can successfully compete with all the hi tech gear being used.
I use an FWB Sport, which shoots well enough for me, as well being the best that I can afford.
July 25, 2017 at 11:47
Thanks for your comment, Rick.
In FT recoiling class your FWB will do fine, and in HFT recoiling class the scope need not be expensive. Here in the Netherlands HFT recoiling class is growing to be very close in number of competitors compared to HFT PCP. It’s very competitive and very affordable at the same time. Current dutch champion, and 4th at the Worlds in Kelmarsh, shoots an HW50 with an affordable Weaver or Redfield scope with max 8 times magnification. How’s that for affordable?
July 27, 2017 at 21:18
Hi Sven , first of all thanks for the information and time dedicated to us readers. 🙂
I am quite new to field target, till now I was in the springer phase and is time to move to the pcp’s
I would appreciate to guide me to what rifle should I buy, I was considering getting a walther lg300 xt anatomic second hand and I found on a webpage and convert it to 16j, AR20ft is out of question , I do not like it, it feels like a toy. Ideally I would like a wooden/laminated stock
BTW I am a lefty so some models are harder to find,
Thanks again
David
July 28, 2017 at 13:37
Hi David,
The LG300 is an excellent choice. For left hand shooters the LG400 is easier to convert to left hand loading. But when the Anatomic you found is a left-hand rifle that is one problem less to solve. The LG300 is very easy to convert to 16 joule. Just buy a new regulator. I wish you a lot of fun in FT shooting, and with a walther rifle I’m sure you will like it.
Regards, Sven.
August 20, 2017 at 07:25
Good day Sven…may I know in your opinion which regulator is more consistent and also material ie coil sprin or washets…many tnx in advance.BTW Im using Lane Regulators but some people say that Huma is better
August 31, 2017 at 12:38
Hello George,
I have limited experience with other regulators than Walther, Anschutz or Audrius.
I have one HUMA that is in my CZ200 and that one is doing fine, but I hardly use this rifle. It is very consistent in velocity. I have 2 Audrius regulators in my Airarms S400 and S400 FAC. These have been in there for more than 7 years now, and never failed.
As I have no experience with the Robert Lane regulators I cannot advise you on that.
As for coil or belleville washers as springs for regulators: They both can be all right. But the design has to fit with the type of spring used. Belleville washers take less space, but also have a limited ‘stroke’ ie. they compress or move only a small distance. Coil springs are larger for the same spring force but can take much more ‘stroke’.
My guess is that the regulator design, material used for the valve seal in the regulator and high quality o-rings have more to do with a consistent and long lasting regulator than the choice of coil or washer springs.
Sven
August 28, 2017 at 12:16
Hello Sven,
Thanks for your great webpage!
I have been reading it for along time.
I am currently converting a FWB C60 to PCP
Living in sweden our limit for free airguns are 10Joules, may get a permit for it and bring it up to 16Joules in the future
Check this out:
http://www.luftvapen.info/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=16888
October 19, 2017 at 05:47
Hi Sven!
I’d be interested to see more about your anti bounce hammer design. Might you be prepared to post drawings? Also do you think it is necessary to use an anti bounce hammer with a regulator?
Many thanks for the great blog, I’ve learnt a lot!
Russ
October 23, 2017 at 11:20
Hi Russ,
I have added a page to my website here ( https://airgunaccuracy.wordpress.com/anti-bounce-hammer-for-the-air-arms-s400-xtra-fac/ ) that shows the anti bounce hammer that I made for the Air Arms S400 XtraFAC.
Regards, Sven.
October 31, 2017 at 05:19
Hi Sven,
Congratulations for your excellent blog, I have been following up on the modifications and improvements you have made to your Anschutz 2002, the fact is that I have a 9003 S2 that I would like to modify to 16 jouls for Field Target, thank you very much for the help and orientation that can give me for the modifications and who to contact to buy the regulator to send to Venezuela. best regards!!
November 1, 2017 at 11:51
Hello Kervin,
When you want the rifle to be modified you can try Jon Harris or Simon “Tench” in the UK. They have much experience with modification of Anschütz rifles. You can find them on the forum ‘www.shooting-the-breeze.com’
When you have a lathe and a milling machine you can try yourself. The 9003 and 8002 are easier to get to 16 Joule than the more difficult to convert 2002. I have modified my own 9003 and it basically means you need more volume in the valve cavity, same as on the 2002. You need to have a stepped hole to avoid breaking into the holes where the heads of the 4 bolts are. And you need to make a new spring guide and a weaker valve spring. The drawings of the modified 2002 on here show how it can be done (the red part here: https://airgunaccuracy.wordpress.com/anschutz-2002-field-target-conversion/ ). You can even go a bit larger on the 9003 and make the 8 mm diameter hole larger to 9mm diameter. You do not need to modify the valve or valve block like I did on the 2002. And you also do not need to reduce the diameter of the regulator like some people do (Tench). My 9003 is running 15,5 Joule at the original factory 7,5 Joule regulator pressure. Which is around 68 Bar.
To convert the 9003 you do not need a new regulator. But if you want a spare one you can buy it from any German gunshop on the internet that is an Anschütz dealer. Buinger, Keuchen, Bauer, Triebel. They do not have the 9003 regulator ion their website but when you send them an email they can order you one.
Or you can try ‘www.eGun.de’ . I currently see a spare part set for 8002 and 9003 that contains a regulator. See: http://egun.de/market/item.php?id=6500896 .
Good luck, Sven
May 24, 2018 at 12:53
Hi Sven,
My name is Tomasz, i come from Poland.
I can’t ask you directly in below thread:
I would ask you how was end your “adventure” with Anschutz 2002.
Thank a lot for your answer
BR
Tomek 🙂
November 19, 2018 at 22:38
Hi Sven, thanks for such a great blog, it contains a lot of info that have been very usefull to me.
But you might help me a little further???
Do you know the size of the valve seat Pos.73 on the dominator??
Regards Adrian
November 20, 2018 at 11:21
Hello Adrian,
I measured the dimensions of the valve seal. They are:
The outside diameter is 13.00 mm
The inside diameter is 6.60 mm (this is the hole in the seal)
The outer edge thickness is 1.45 mm
The inner rim thickness is 1.75 mm (this is the part where the valve sits on)
The inner rim is 9.50mm diameter (this is the part where the valve sits on).
I hope this helps you to make a valve seal. It’s a very expensive part (27 euro) when ordered from Walther. It’s better to make your own from PTFE/Teflon.
November 20, 2018 at 11:39
I have also published the dimensions and a picture here: https://airgunaccuracy.wordpress.com/walther-lg300-and-lg400-o-ring-sizes/
November 22, 2018 at 11:25
Actually 29€ plus shipping lol!!
Thanks for taking the measurements for me, you’re the MAN!!!
I’ve already made (well a friend of mine,since I don’t have the equipment nor the knowledge) two out of delrin. No PTFE in stock at the moment.
I will try them out over the weekend and report back to you.
November 22, 2018 at 11:32
Hi Adrian,
No problem. I hope your Walther will shoot well.
Delrin may be a problem though. This was tried before by others and the Delrin got deformed over time by the impact of the valve. But there is more than one quality of Delrin. So it may work better with the stuff you have.
Sven
January 29, 2019 at 22:23
Hi Sven
I would like to buy an LG 300 dominator HUNTER RIFLE … I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW PRECISELY what is the difference between the hunter rifle and the classical dominator ….. trigger attack …. Spring Compression… Sprig striker… … STRIKER …. Pressure regulator … …. Etc .. Thank you very much
January 29, 2019 at 22:29
I noticed that the trigger is different …. And the barrel length is 490mm
If you send me your e-mail address, you can post pictures of the rifle
thanks
January 30, 2019 at 10:05
Hi Dino,
There are quite a few differences between the LG300 Dominator and the Hunter.
The Walther LG300 Hunter has:
– different stock (ambidextrous, light brown laminated wood, with sling swivels)
– barrel of 56,5 cm length (most of the Dominator rifles have a 49 cm barrel, the last few made Dominator rifles also have a 56,5 cm barrel).
– barrel has a carbon shroud (same as the 10 metre LG300)
– barrel has a muzzle tube (with a baffle at the front so that acts like a sound moderator)
– trigger is from the LGM-2 rifle
– the short aluminum junior aircilinder (33,5cm , 154cm3)
This means that the system block (except for the trigger) and the regulator are the same as used for the Dominator. The Hunter seems to be made with both 16 and 21 Joule regulators.
I hope this helps you. I have just recently bought a Zenith (Nick Murphy) modified LG300 Dominator (49cm barrel) in a Hunter stock myself. Unfortunately this is not originally an LG300 Hunter and also the original wooden buttplate and sling swivels are lacking. I asked Judith Billharz but these parts are not available from Walther anymore.
Best regards, Sven.
January 30, 2019 at 14:19
Hi Sven
But the LG 300 Dominator are On sale or are out of production
January 30, 2019 at 16:05
Hi Dino,
You are absolutely right. The LG300 Dominator is not available anymore. But I heard that Walther is now finally selling the LG400 Field Target. see https://www.carl-walther.de/produkte/sportwaffen/luftgewehre/2825724.html
Has been on the website for over 2 years but was never delivered. But two weeks ago I heard that Krale has 2 LG400 FT in stock : see https://www.krale.shop/en/walther-lg400-m-alutec-field-target.html
Regards, Sven.
February 17, 2019 at 22:24
Hi sven
The N 72 valve still has the conical and non-flat tip. I saw the photo on Bilzzard’s website
Also as you adjust the trigger on a LG 300 dominator you could send me photos thank you very much
February 18, 2019 at 18:40
Hello Dino,
I have added the instructions to adjust the trigger on the new page “Walter Trigger Adjustment” https://airgunaccuracy.wordpress.com/walther-trigger-adjustment/
I see. The LG300 firing valve (number 72 in the exploded view) is still the old type. I do not think this is the cause of the problem you describe. This conical valve can cause some temperature induced shift. But not the effect you describe where the velocity drops off when the pressure goes below 120 bar. This must be a regulator problem. Can be your regulator is set at a wrong (probably too high) pressure. You can send me the regulator so I can check it for you.
Regards, Sven
February 19, 2019 at 18:50
Grazie mille Sven
February 19, 2019 at 19:02
In another article you talked about the flat N 72 valve …. Where can I buy it?
Anyway I checked my regulator in fact it had a pressure too high 95bar
Thanks
February 20, 2019 at 16:13
Hi Dino,
Here you can buy the valve: https://www.schiesssport-billharz.de/shop/de/Pos.-86-Ventil
Good luck with your Walther, these are really nice shooting rifles.
Sven
February 20, 2019 at 20:51
Hi Sven
But looking at the picture always has the tip conical ??
February 21, 2019 at 12:14
Hi Dino,
No, not in the picture on the website of Schiesssport Billharz. In that picture the valve is flat on the sealing side. The older type is conical on the sealing side.
The side where the spring sits always has a chamfered edge.
Regards, Sven.
February 21, 2019 at 14:52
Ok.. Grazie mille e scusami Sven x l’ignoranza tecnica
February 22, 2019 at 10:17
Dino,
I made a photo of the conical and flat valve. See : https://airgunaccuracy.wordpress.com/walther-lg-300-conversion-to-16-joule/
the picture at the bottom of the page.
Regards, Sven.
February 23, 2019 at 15:09
Hi Sven
Explain how you could solve the problem of changing the point of impact when the temperature changes
February 25, 2019 at 10:29
Hi Dino,
There are a few things to do to prevent temperature shift:
1. Clean the hammer and hammer cavity from grease / lubricant.
2. Remove grease from the hammer spring.
3. Use only the screw on the bottom to fix the action in the stock (do not use the 2 side screws).
4. Make sure the barrel is free floating in the front barrel holder.
5. Use a firing valve that has a flat sealing side.
Regards, Sven.
March 11, 2020 at 19:42
I have tried to use a flat valve on my lg400 ft but it made it feel harsh to shoot, Also I had to add more hammer spring preload to get the same fps I had when using the conical valve that came as standard with the lg400 ft
May 2, 2019 at 10:14
Hi Sven, enig idee hoe je een feinwerkbau 800x kan ombouwen voor field target er is een speciale versie van feinwerkbau maar die heb ikniet 🙂
May 2, 2019 at 11:32
Hello Kordaat,
Omdat deze site voor het merendeel bezocht wordt door buitenlandse bezoekers ga ik in het engels antwoorden.
To convert a Feinwerkbau 800X from 7.5 to 16 joule you need to increase the volume of regulated air available for the shot. That means a larger chamber to hold the air.
I have checked the Feinwerkbau website [ https://www.feinwerkbau.de/de/Service-Download/Downloadbereich/Explosionszeichnungen ] but I can not find a parts list or parts drawing for the 800X Field Target version. That is a shame because that makes it more difficult to order the parts needed to convert your 800X. My best guess is you would need the FT pressure regulator, a new FT pre-chamber maybe and new screws to mount it. Jon Harris in the UK has a lot of experience converting the 800X, and in his opinion just swapping the regulator will bring you to 16 joule, but it will not necessarily make you a good shooting rifle. There a more things that need to be changed to make a good shooting FT rifle out of an 800X. Read this page for instance: https://pimpmyairgun.com/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=1097&start=10
If you are really looking for a good shooting 16 joule Feinwerkbau 800X I suggest you send you rifle to Jon Harris and let him do his magic. Because according to Jon and others the factory 800X Field Target is not 100% suited for the job.
July 31, 2019 at 21:23
Hi Sven. Thanks very much for all your efforts and the fact that You are willing to share what You have learnt. Because of your site I am now converting my LG400 to a 16 joule model. I bought the 16j reg and the aadaptor seal. But I got a leak because I did not put an o-ring on top of the Teflon adaptor. I read your article again and I found the Dimensions 9.25 mm ID x 1.78 mm. But perhaps you now how much shore this o-ring has to be? Because I believe you didn’t mention it. If the regulator needs adjustment, are you willing to assist in that or do you have the contact information for the man who made all that fancy equipment you showed? Hope You have a lot of fun in clear passion for airguns. lovely!
August 14, 2019 at 08:04
Hello stpeeke,
Sorry for the delay in answering, I was on holidays.
The hardness for the regulator to adapter o-ring is not very critical (there are no moving parts involved, so there is no wear).
I use 70 shore NBR and my LG400 is still on the first o-ring I put in there. I have had remarks from one user that had a leak with the 9.25×1.78 o-ring right after fitting the reg. He then used a 10×2 o-ring which worked fine. Apparently his LG400 had a little bit deeper valve hole or the reg was a bit short?
Good luck with the conversion and good shooting,
Sven.
August 25, 2019 at 17:55
Do you have a strip guide for the LG 300 to disassemble the pellet probe and striker for cleaning please
August 25, 2019 at 19:05
Hi Ken, yes it is on my website under LG300 tweeking and tuning. https://airgunaccuracy.wordpress.com/walther-lg300-dominator-tweeking-and-tuning/
February 29, 2020 at 11:14
Hoi Sven,
Weet jij of er een standaard conversie bestaat voor de lg300 om de kijker laag te krijgen met een ander model spanhendel?
Groeten,
HJM
February 29, 2020 at 20:14
Op deze pagina staat de walther spanhendel met een bochtje erin. Bij Judith Billharz vast te bestellen https://airgunaccuracy.wordpress.com/walther-lg-300-conversion-to-16-joule/
August 4, 2020 at 21:46
Hi Sven do you have a diagram to show how to adjust the power on a feinwerkbau P70FT please.
Cheers Graham.
August 5, 2020 at 08:00
Sorry Graham, I don’t have a diagram. I will try to make one, but it will take a week because of the holidays.
Sven.
August 5, 2020 at 08:23
That’s very kind of you, l hope you and your family are keeping safe and well in this pandemic.
I can wait for as long as it takes, there’s no rush as l can’t see any comps. taking place till next year at the earliest. I’m hoping to lower the power a little as at the moment it’s doing 11.85 which is too near the legal limit for my liking want to reduce it to 11.3, or 11.4
Cheers Graham.
August 12, 2020 at 21:26
Hi Sven, don’t worry about doing a diagram, if you could tell me where the power adjustment screw is that should suffice, is it the big brass one under the block which is the reg adjustment screw, if not where do l find the setscrew for the hammer spring.
Cheers Graham.
August 13, 2020 at 19:49
Hi Graham, the brass screw on the bottom is the regulator pressure, better not touch that. The hammer spring adjuster is at the rear of the block. Say, where your nose is pointing when you are shooting.
August 13, 2020 at 21:58
Hi Sven, thanks for that will have a go at adjusting the power on Sunday at the club, will let you know how l get on.
Cheers Graham.
August 13, 2020 at 20:02
Don’t forget to loosen the small grubs crew on the side first
August 6, 2020 at 11:13
Hi Sven
I can see that you have experience with both the 2002 and 9015 barrels. I wanted to know if you could help me. I have a 2002 stock and want to exchange the barreld action with the 9015. Would It be possible to fit the 9015 barreld action in the old 2002 alu stock?
August 6, 2020 at 14:18
Hi Kristine,
The 9015 (or 8002, 9003) would not fit in the 2002 stock. At least not without modifications of the stock. The 2002 is fixed with a bottom screw. The 9015 with two side screws, and when necessary one bottom screw. But the action of the 9015 has a flat bottom, the 2002 has a tapered cylindrical, a cone shaped bedding point.
You can of course make a new bedding in the 2002 stock with Devcon or other epoxy material. When you are going to do that, make sure you align the height of the bedding with the front barrel/cilinder holder.
Good luck, Sven
August 17, 2020 at 11:37
Hi Sven, adjusted the power down to 11.4 which l feel suits the fwb. Smooth as silk now to shoot plus gives me extra shots per fill.
Thanks for your help.
Cheers Graham.
August 17, 2020 at 13:09
Hi Graham,
Thank you for the feedback. I suppose you only needed a small turn on the setscrew?
Cheers, Sven.
August 17, 2020 at 13:20
About a quarter turn did the trick.
When the locking nut was loosened the hammer spring screw was very loose, easy to turn so made sure l securely tightened the lock but when completed.
Put back together and put 10 pellets through the rifle all registering between 11.4 and 11.5.
September 12, 2020 at 19:46
Ciao SVEN come posso contattarti?!? ho una LG300, avrei bisogno di qualche informazioni, grazie mille Emiliano
November 16, 2020 at 18:06
buona sera avri di bisogno il quick fill x una walter 300
November 16, 2020 at 17:11
http://www.josef1000.cz/index.php/walther/97-walther-kit-rychloplneni-hammerli-diana
November 16, 2020 at 17:11
This may be what you need
May 12, 2021 at 09:21
Hallo,
Zonet de link voor je blog zien passeren op luchtbuks.net. Meteen vluchtig doorbladerd. Man, jij weet nog es wat.
Heb je ook ervaring met zogenaamde “balanced valves” ? Of zoals Gregor Kamenšek het noemt : “pressure assisted valves”?
May 18, 2021 at 12:39
Hoi Ivan,
Bedankt voor je reactie. Ik was vorige week op vakantie vandaar de late reactie.
Ik ken Gregor niet, maar eigenlijk zijn alle kleppen/ firing valves in luchtbuksen ‘balanced’ en pressure assisted. De lucht drukt altijd meer of minder op de klep om hem weer dicht te krijgen, dus alle kleppen zijn ‘pressure assisted’. Ik denk dar Gregor dat bedoeld, maar de benaming ‘pressure assisted’ is dus niet zo’n handige term.
Afhankelijk van hoe de balans tussen de krachten op de klep vanaf de voorkant van de klep en vanaf de achterkant van de klep is, is de efficientie van het luchtverbruik en de pellet energie beter of slechter. En dat kan heel veel verschil in luchtverbruik en pellet snelheid opleveren.
Hoe ver een klep opent, en hoe lang hij open is (en dus hoeveel lucht er doorheen stroomt) word altijd bepaald door het samenspel van de luchtdruk op de klep van de ene kant en de kracht van de hamer/striker van de andere kant.
Een complicerende factor in vooral het luchtverbruik is de ‘hammer’ bounce. Dat de hamer ‘stuitert’op de klep en hem dus per schot meerdere malen opent. voor een filmpje van de hammer bounce zie: https://airgunaccuracy.wordpress.com/walther-lg-400-hammer-bounce/
Bijna alle buksen hebben wel iets hammerbounce, behalve de elektronische Daystates misschien en de Daystates met een ‘Harper valve’. Dat laatste is echt een heel mooi mechanisch systeem en scheelt enorm veel luchtverbruik. Uit een Daystate Merlyn met Harper valve bijvoorbeeld haal je makkelijk 100 constante schoten op 16 joule met een drukbuis die kleiner is dan van een Airarms S400 die 60 constante schoten haalt.
Mijn artikel over de ‘Anti- Bounce hammer’ beschrijft de pogingen om dat soort effect in een Airarms te bereiken: geen hammer bounce.
Hoe je de balans van de klep het best kunt instellen hangt af van het type buks. En met name wat de instel mogelijkheden op die buks zijn. Soms is de luchtdruk niet, of lastig, in te stellen en dan is dat dus geen optie om de balans in te stellen. Dan blijven nog de hamerveer, hamergewicht, en klepveer over. Met die 4 dingen (luchtdruk (via regulator), hamerveer, hamergewicht en klepveer) kun je gaan ‘balanceren’.
Bij de meeste buksen kun je het makkelijkst balanceren met de hamerveer. Die is bijna altijd het makkelijkst te verstellen. Het nadeel van alleen de hamerveer gebruiken is dat je dan niet de gewenste snelheid kunt kiezen. Je hebt dan wel een gebalanceerde klep maar niet genoeg of teveel snelheid.
Dan komt de luchtdruk of regulator druk erbij kijken en kun je daarmee gaan ‘tegen balanceren’. Of een andere klepveer monteren.
Kortom, het is voor elk type buks zoeken naar de juiste instellingen. Gelukkig zijn er vaak meerdere instellingen die goed werken. Informatie van anderen met eenzelfde type buks kan je een boel zoeken en uitproberen schelen. Houdt wel in de gaten dan een 16 joule FX bijvoorbeeld heel anders gebalanceerd is dan een 50 of 80 joule buks van hetzelfde merk en type. Info over een 16 joule FX buks zal dus niet helpen om een 80 joule FX perfect te balanceren.
Succes, en als er specifieke vragen zijn dan hoor ik het graag.
Groeten, Sven.
February 23, 2022 at 06:17
Hi Sven, are you still making the 16j regulator’s for LG400 please.
February 23, 2022 at 13:32
Hi Peter,
I do not make regulators. I do make an adapter to fit an 12 ftlbs Walther LG300 regulator to the LG400. But these can adapters can also be bought from Walther (for 22 Euro) since a few years: https://schiesssport-billharz.eu/2833182-Adapterring
Good luck with your Walther LG400, Sven.
February 26, 2022 at 14:54
I messed up my LG300 belleville washer.
What is the current order for default settings??
February 26, 2022 at 21:05
Hi Jewel,
Please look at the page called Walther
February 26, 2022 at 21:07
Hi Jewel,
Please look at the page called ‘Walther Pressure Regulators’
Half way down or so your question is answered. Cheers, 5.
July 31, 2022 at 18:28
Hi
I am looking for o-ring sizes used in my PCP airgun (Diana P 1000), cylinder is made by Walther and is made of steel, it is 300 bar
Will be grateful if sizes of two orings used in cylinder can be provided
July 31, 2022 at 18:43
Hello Amjad,
The answer is already on this website : https://airgunaccuracy.wordpress.com/walther-lg300-and-lg400-o-ring-sizes/
It is a 7mmx2mm oring that sits in the cilinder where it connects to the regulator. I would choose a harder Viton 90 shore or something like that. They can be ordered in many places on the internet.
Good luck and good shooting, Sven.
December 12, 2022 at 16:35
Hello Sven,
I hope you could assist me.
We have a club LG300 Alutec 7.5J target air-rifle serial no.10529 (I’m not sure how old this is) and would like to convert to 16J version to use for HFT/FT in the UK.
Looking through your previous posts, I have reached-out to Judith at https://schiesssport-billharz.eu/ to confirm parts needed
She said for a conversion from a LG 300 7.5 Joule to 16 Joule the following parts are required and that in most cases, the Striker is also changed at the same time.
1x 2693038 – Druckminderer kpl. 16J
1x 2732505 Ventildichtung
1x 2664844 Schlagbolzen
I have read several of your articles about an LG400 to 16J but can’t see one to show this LG300 conversion, is it quite straightforward as in just replacing the regulator and seal or any other adjustments/set-ups are required?
Also do you believe this Striker really needs to be changed as its about 75 euro?
Thank you for your assistance
Michael
December 13, 2022 at 10:05
Hello Michael,
You do not need to replace the striker (Schlagbolzen). You only need the regulator (Druckminderer) and the valve seal (Ventildichtung).
The regulator is off course the higher pressure (83 – 85 bar) and larger volume 16 joule version. The Ventildichtung is the valve seal that is made from a tougher white PTFE for the 16 joule version compared to the softer blue (or green) version that is used in the 7.5 joule. The soft blue seal can result in temperature induced velocity variations. And it may wear out faster, I say may, because I know shooters that use the blue seal for a long time now and report no problems. But to be safe it is better to use the intended 16 joule white PTFE seal.
The factory 16 joule LG300 Dominator has a heavier striker. But I would advise against using the heavy striker. The original 7.5 joule striker is more than enough for 16 joule. And using the heavy striker will give more shot reaction. It’s just not necessary.
When your LG300 has a regulator with the grooves on the outside (the MK2 as I call them) you could make the conversion even cheaper.
But you would need to disassemble the regulator to install a larger ‘ Vorkammer’ part no. 2692970 Vorkammer Groß, 54,20 Euro without VAT at Schiesssport-Billharz.eu.
And you would need to increase the reg pressure with the set screw from 75 to 85 bar. This can be a bit difficult without a regulator tester. But it can be done, it is about 1/16th to 1/8th of a turn clockwise on the regulator setscrew. Make small steps and chrono in between. Info on how to disassemble the reg is here: https://airgunaccuracy.wordpress.com/walther-pressure-regulators/
One thing you may run into is the cocking lever. The standard 7.5 joule version of the lever may hit your scope and or scope mounts. This depends on the position of the mounts and the height of the scope. For FT with a scope raiser it may work fine when the raiser is not wider than the breech block. For HFT you may have to shorten the cocking lever. Or buy a new extended cocking lever, although I cannot find it on the Billharz website.
It should be all in here: https://airgunaccuracy.wordpress.com/walther-lg-300-conversion-to-16-joule/ . Also read the comments below.
Good luck with the conversion.
July 5, 2023 at 21:18
Hi Sven I have a club Walther LG200 that needs the small pellet probe/breach seal o-ring replaced. How do I remove the plug at the back of the “action” to get the probe out? I tried to replace the seal without removing the probe and all I did was tear the seal.
My Walther LG300 has the older stabilizer that uses the tiny spring loaded ball to keep the 2 parts of the stabilizer together. When I removed the plug to replace the probe air seal I noticed was not bottomed out tight it was 6 turns in and kept from moving via loctite. Should it be tightened up all the way? Is there a torque spec. How is this stabilizer adjusted?
Thanks
Bruce
July 6, 2023 at 08:45
Hi Bruce,
The plug at the back is connected to a spring that connected to the pellet probe and puts tension on it.
You need to remove the cocking linkage so the pin that pulls the pellet probe to the rear when cocking can be removed from the probe. The whole assembly of probe, spring and plug then come out to the rear.
The cocking linkage is held in place by a screw in the axle on the left hand side of the action. You only need to pull the cocking lever a short way out to free the pin in the pellet probe. Then the probe can come out to the rear.
When you pull the whole cocking lever out (which is not advisable) you may loose the tiny ball and spring that go into a detent in the axle of the cocking lever.
It is the same procedure as shown here for the LG300 Dominator: https://airgunaccuracy.wordpress.com/walther-lg300-dominator-tweeking-and-tuning/
The LG200 has the same setup.
Good luck, Sven.
December 14, 2022 at 17:33
Hello Sven,
Thank you for your prompt reply and very detailed explanation and highlighting the fact that I do not need to replace the Striker and only 2 parts.
Yes, I read your article about disassembling and re-setting the pressure of existing regulator but will probably buy a new replacement Mk2 16J as then the swap-out is very straightforward and we have the option to swap back in the future.
The most difficult part to me is to replace the cocking lever with an LG300 Dominator or Hunter cocking lever or as per your article modify the existing one. As you said, I can’t seem to find spare one of these on any sites.
In the meantime, I have removed the stock but can’t see how to remove the existing cocking lever, it seems to be welded to another part of the cocking mechanism or is there a pin which holds them together?
Any help how to disassemble this would be helpful and thank you once again.
Thanks
Michael
December 15, 2022 at 09:03
Hello Michael,
You may want to try to get an Dominator cocking lever (Ladehebel ausgelagert, nr. 2688638) at Judith Billharz. She is your best option as she has contacts at the Walther factory. I cannot find this lever at the sources I always go to. So there may be no stock left. But email Judith and ask what she can do.
Otherwise you’d have to modify the lever as per the way described on the LG300 conversion page.
You are right on the construction of the cocking lever. The lever part is welded to the axle/spindle part, you cannot take it apart. To disassemble you need to remove the the lever including the axle. It is held in place by a screw at the left side of the breechblock. Make sure you do not loose the very small ball and spring that fit into a detent in the axle in the closed position of the lever. Best to slacken the small grub screw that sits in the bottom of the block straight under the axle at the right hand side. This way you take the spring pressure of the ball and prevent it from flying out when you pull out the lever axle.
There is also a stepped washer under the axle screw. Make sure you mount it back in the same way you found it.
Also advise to take pictures of the orientation of the two intermediate levers. (see https://airgunaccuracy.wordpress.com/walther-lg300-dominator-tweeking-and-tuning/ for info). It is way easier to assemble the 3 cocking levers when you studied how they are arranged (top/bottom & left/right) before you shake them out on the desk.
With the cocking lever out you can now also take out the Absorber. To wipe it clean when necessary. The axle of the cocking lever blocks the Absorber from coming out.
Good luck and any questions are welcome, Sven.
December 17, 2022 at 16:47
Thank you once again Sven – you are always helpful and have an excellent and extensive wealth of knowledge about these Walther LG300/400’s.
I appreciate all your advice about the cocking lever and sending me the link to your previous website post.
I will probably modify the LG300 sometime in the New Year once I have have all the parts.
Best regards
Michael
December 15, 2023 at 02:44
Hi Sven I’d like to order a new LG 300 MKII reg to do the 16j conversion on my LG300XT 10m rifle. Do you happen to know the part no. offhand? Im wanting to use a 2nd reg that way I can quickly switch back and forth from 7.5 to 16j as I use the rifle primarily for 10m. Is 2732505 still the correct part no. for the white seal? You mentioned in your disassembly article that a Phil from the UK made your reg disassembly clamps. Does he make these for sale and do you have his contact info so I may buy a pair.
Also here is a suggestion for a tool to open up barrel clamp holes. Take a 3/8″ bolt about 2″ long and cut the head off the bolt. Use a hacksaw with 2 blades or something of similar thickness to cut a 1″ slot lengthwise down the bolt. Try to cut the slot reasonably straight, but accuracy isn’t critical. The slot needs to be fairly wide to be able to snuggly accept emory/sand paper folded in half. The bolt will be chucked into a 3/8″ drill. Cut a piece of Emory that will be twice as wide as your hole so that when folded in half it will be the same width as the clamp hole. The length will be just bigger than the diameter of the hole. Insert the folded Emory into the slot of the bolt. It should now look like a “T” shape. Roll the Emory around the bolt and insert into clamp hole , spin drill and it should take off material in a perfectly cylindrical fashion. Stop the drill before removing from the hole otherwise the flapping Emory will take the finish off everything it touches and also may fly off the dowel. How fast material comes of will of course depend on the grit of Emory you use and the speed of your drill. I like 220-320 for aluminum as it doesn’t take off material too fast and leaves a smooth finish. Ive used this for years as a quick and dirty way to remove material in all kinds of holes that still leaves a pretty even round shape. Wearing safety glasses during this operation is a sound idea.
Thanks for any help.
Bruce
December 15, 2023 at 08:36
Hi Bruce,
The Walther part number for the 16 joule regulator is: 2693038 see: https://schiesssport-billharz.eu/2693038-Druckminderer-kpl-16J
For the white PTFE seal the part no is still 2732505, see: https://schiesssport-billharz.eu/2732505-Ventildichtung
The aluminum clamps from Phil are not for sale. He may want to make you some but the plastic hydraulic clamps work just as well and can be ordered from ebay faster and for less money. Search the web for 35 millimeter hydraulic clamps and you will find what you need. You will need two of those of course. Put some printer paper between the regulator housing and the plastic clamp for more friction (I do this on the ally clamps as well). Then add a steel bar or very large spanner, or a C clamp for woodworking to get some leverage on the hydraulic clamp.
Thank you for the info on enlarging the front barrel clamp. This will certainly be helpful to some.
Good luck and much fun shooting Field Target
December 15, 2023 at 19:15
Am I better off with the 16j reg or modifying a 7.5j reg? From youre article it sounded like a 7.5j reg gives better results.
Bruce
December 17, 2023 at 10:37
The only mechanical difference between the 7.5 and the 16 joule reg is the chamber on the low pressure side. And the setting of the setscrew on the Belleville washer stack. With that in mind there is no difference between the both regs, whether modified 7.5 or 16 joule. Both use the same parts so they give the same results.
It is only much cheaper to buy a 16 joule low pressure chamber (55 euro) when you already have a 7.5 regulator.
Regards, Sven.
December 27, 2023 at 07:03
Thought of a couple more questions. Getting the 16j reg should I still take it apart and turn up the reg slightly? I don’t have a reg tester. With the 7.5j reg you said 3/8ths of a turn should be about perfect. Have you a suggestion for the 16j reg. What should I be looking for in terms of velocity with 8.2-8.4gr pellets?
Haven’t looked at field target sites for awhile know, when did everyone go away from the 10.5gr heavies? Im assuming accuracy and wind drift being the reasons?
Thanks again for all your great advice.
Bruce
December 27, 2023 at 10:40
Hi Bruce,
The 16 joule reg is set correctly as it comes. There was a batch of these 16 joule regs that was set to the wrong 7.5 joule output pressure a few years back. They needed adjusting.
But over the last few years I have not heard anything about that problem.
About the pellet weight :
In the past people shot the Crosman Premier pellets or the H&N Baracuda. These could not be bought in another weight than Heavy (10. 5grain). Then at some point in time the then new JSB Exact 8.4 grain came on the market. And it proved to be more accurate than the Crosman or Baracuda. Especially at the longer ranges. And it has less drop thus is more forgiving on ranging errors. So most ft shooters switched to JSB 8.4.
Then a few years further on, JSB started making Heavies. And these are accurate. But the larger drop at distance is still a disadvantage of the heavies.
Some shooters claim the heavies show less wind drift, other shooters don’t see this. I tested 8.4 against 10.3 grain pellets in the wind. I shot 16 groups of 10 shots. Over two different windy days. And measured the horizontal size of all groups. The end result was that the heavies had an average horizontal group size that was only 1 millimeter less than the 8.4 grain pellets. So for me the conclusion is that heavies have no advantage in the wind.
This combined with the less drop of the 8.4 grain pellets is most probably the reason most FT shooters (85%) choose the 8.4 grain these days .
Hope this helps, Sven.